Pierson Jacquelin
Posts:29
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| 05/24/2007 11:46 AM |
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Hey There,
What are people using on the inside of the boat? My original "plates" are wood. Time to replace 'em.
-Pierson |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 05/24/2007 12:18 PM |
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| I think the new norm is for 3/16" G10. G10 is available at McMaster Carr. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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steven clough
Posts:31
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| 06/01/2007 12:42 AM |
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I would agree with the G10 material. I used it exclusively on all my stanchions with great success. I cut it with a carbide tipped blade to the desired shape. You can get it from www.mcmaster.com
Just make sure you core out the holes and fill with epoxy prior to setting the stanchions.
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 09/24/2007 1:42 PM |
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14 Guage stainless steel plates inside and out. I don't know exactly how it is going to look, but I don't think that I will ever have anything to be concern ed about in the future. Besure to round the corners before they are installed.
Hull # 2273 |
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stephen estes
Posts:11
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| 09/28/2007 1:47 AM |
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The SS may deform, the G10 will not.
G10 is a better bet. |
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 09/28/2007 1:38 PM |
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Steve,
I don't believe that the moment arm that the stanchion can apply to a 7X7 14 guage stainless steel plate (between 1/8 and 1/16 thick plate) will deform the plate. Addition the plate will not corrode, or be effected by ultaviolent light. The advantage that G10 would have would be that it is lighter. As much as it cost to get this done, I only want to do it once. Regards, Ken Shores Hull # 2373 |
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steven clough
Posts:31
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| 09/28/2007 2:39 PM |
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| G-10 material would certainly be the best choice for a couple of reasons: 1). you can cut/grind with belt sander to any size or shape you desire so as to allow a perfect fit 2). G-10 comes in many different thickness 3). you can purchase G-10 in a 1' x 1' sheet and cut it out with a carbide bit and have enough to do all four stanchions. I am not sure what is meant by ultraviolet light and corrosion. G-10 will not corrode. I think the most important point is to make sure you core out the existing stanchion deck holes and fill with epoxy then redrill the necessary bolt diameter and use a good sealant (i.e. 3M 4200). I used a v-bit on the deck to allow a small pool of sealant so that all of the sealant does not get pushed out while you insert the bolt through the deck. You can put stainless steel or G-10 backing material to support the stanchion, but if you do not seal the bolt holes correctly, water will eventually ruin your work and then you will be doing it all over again with some additional deck recoring work. Good Luck. Steve #2366 |
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stephen estes
Posts:11
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| 10/02/2007 11:24 PM |
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The "V" bit trick is nice.
I did that when I redid my boat several years ago.
I have seen a lot of hardware installations where all the sealant was squeezed out when the fasteners were tightened, leaving much (or even any) sealant.
It sort of makes it so there is an "O" ring of sealant around the fastener, left in the chamfer that the countersink bit cuts.
I can see the concern about the possible UV damage to G-10 on the deck.
I have seen laid up carbon used for backing plates, also.
I guess the SS would work okay. But I do think the 3/16" G-10 is more resistant to permanent deflection that 14 gauge SS. One will bend and stay bent, the other will not. |
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Pierson Jacquelin
Posts:29
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| 10/04/2007 11:09 PM |
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Ultimately I used the G10. One of the advantages of Garolite over Stainless was that I was able to easily adjust the size & positions of the holes to accomodate the difference in the throughbolt pitch from hole to hole. I didn't think it would be that significant (and I pre-drilled all the holes for a perfect fit) but when I went to fit the plates, I found that if the hole is off axis by a degree or two (or five), the holes in the stanchion base and the backing plates won't match up.
From reading the posts and looking at a local boat, people are putting plates on top of the deck as well as underneath. Bulletproof, I'm sure.
I like the idea of the countersink bit for your sealant. This, along with the overdrilled-hole-with-epoxy-core, is a good idea...although time intensive!
-pierson |
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 10/08/2007 6:54 PM |
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Thanks for the comments. I have access to stainless steel at a reasonable cost, and don't know where I would get G10. (The point that I was trying to make about uv degradation of polymers is this. The polymer is laid up on glass and the carbon to carbon bonds are sensitive to UV and will breakdown even if you put in UV adsorbers in the epoxy. I use to make epoxies other polymers for a living and am familiar how this works.) So eventually you will have to replace the polymer plate. I don't see that happening with SS. Of course the salt water could cause chloride stress corrision cracking in the stainless steel.
I like your suggestion about completely filling the bolt holes with epoxy and the drilling them out again, and also the countersink detail as well. I am going to have to do the starboard side myself.
Fair winds and fast sailing,
Ken |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 10/10/2007 9:28 AM |
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I would go with stainless if its cheap enough especially for the top plate.
G10 is available at McMaster Carr www.mcmastercarr.com - they are an industrial supply house but will sell to the general public with a credit card. They ship in-stock items same day and I have yet to have an order come later than the next day even though I pay for ground shipping. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 10/10/2007 8:38 PM |
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Again, thanks. Since I am in an industry that uses alot of stainless steel. I got 8 plates for $100 custom fabricated.
Good luck on the rebuild. I am just getting mine out of the shop, and hope to get her in the water in the next week or so.
Have fun,
Ken Shores |
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 10/10/2007 8:38 PM |
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Again, thanks. Since I am in an industry that uses alot of stainless steel. I got 8 plates for $100 custom fabricated.
Good luck on the rebuild. I am just getting mine out of the shop, and hope to get her in the water in the next week or so.
Have fun,
Ken Shores |
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