Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 11/20/2007 3:43 PM |
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I own a 1980 J24. Do I need to put an 5" inspection port in the storm hood to access the lifting plate in the bildge?
Ken Shores
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Eriks Kalvins
Posts:29
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| 11/21/2007 7:38 PM |
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I've seen this approach, or using a board or something in front of the sea hood to route the lifting strap behind it. Also, I remove the slider before lifting, so that the wood isn't in the way. Its also just as important to have a line going from the lifting strap to either side of the boat. We have carabeaners on the end of a line that we run to each forward stanchion base, though I've also seen people do this in addition to going around the primary winches. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures that I could share with out to be more insightful.
Eriks
The Black Pearl
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 11/21/2007 11:33 PM |
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Erik,
Thanks for the response. My boat is now a legal resident of Texas and about to go into salt water for the first time in her life. Like you indicate, Physics tends to tell me that the boat will rotate around the lifting strap. So the fore and aft tag lines are very important. I will test with a plumb line to see the arrangement. Either way the winds are supposed to be very good this weekend with a cold front coming in from the North. Winds should be 10-20 knots. Don't know that this is necessarily the best time take her out for the first time......
Regards,
Ken Shores
Litora Caeli
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Eriks Kalvins
Posts:29
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| 11/22/2007 12:58 AM |
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Don't be too concerned if you have a slightly bow down tilt to the boat. More often than not I've seen J/24s lifted like this who don't route their lifting strap through the sea hood, with no ill effect. I usually try to keep the contents balanced so that it is more or less level side to side, though inevitably something is left somewhere on board that causes a bit of a shift
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 11/23/2007 12:20 PM |
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Again thanks for the response. I would just as soon not put any more holes in my boat than is necessary. I believe that this also explains how the small chip of teak broke around the hasp on the companion way. I am going to get two shackles and attempt a launching....
Hope to see a picture of the Black Pearl sometime....
Ken Shores
Litora Caeli
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Eriks Kalvins
Posts:29
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| 11/24/2007 2:56 AM |
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Also, if you're using a shackle to attach the lifting strap to the bar on the keel bolts, make sure that its rotated so its lifting straight up, not with stress on the threads of the shackle, and be sure to have the keel bolts torqued to the proper tightness... can't remember what that tension is at this moment, but hopefully someone may chime in on that one, or try a search of the forum.
You can check out the Pearl at www.theblackpearl.ca I've got some shots up from when we were doing the re-fit... though I haven't gotten around to putting up pictures from the summer of 2007... too busy sailing!
Eriks
The Black Pearl
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 11/25/2007 11:40 PM |
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Eriks,
I contacted Waterline Systems and they forwarded a picture from the Annapolis Performance Sailing site which shows an inspection port centered in the stormhood 4-5 inches in from the aft edge. However they also show using the lifting strap without the inspection port with the strap immobilized by port and starboard (around the winches and stopped on a cam cleat.) I am going to take one of the many pieces of scrap 2X4 I own. Cut it to the width of the companion way, and cut a notch for the hasp on the companion way cover and a notch for the strap. The intent is to defuse the force from the companion way cover and distribute it to the sides which attempting to help to keep the strap from moving on a starboard port line. (I will also lash off the lifting strap in 2 dimensions as well).
PS I visited your website, You have a pretty boat.
Hope you can make it to the third coast sometime. We sail year round. Temps in the 40's and 50's doesn't stop us (just slow us down a bit.)
Hasta la vista,
Ken
Litora Caeli
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Wendover IV Neefus
Posts:7
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| 11/26/2007 1:28 PM |
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To the owner of the "Black Pearl" Wow! Great name and great paint job. Did you or someone else do all the work?
If you could please email me at cneefus@msn.com
I have some questions that are rather long and may not be of importance to be posted on this forum forever.
C.W. Neefus
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Eriks Kalvins
Posts:29
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| 11/26/2007 5:23 PM |
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Thanks!
I did all of the prep work, including recoring sections of the deck, fairing the hull and moving the keel forward. The paintjob was done by an auto body paint pro with whom I've got connections.
CW Neefus, you've got mail.
Cheers
Eriks
The Black Pearl
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 12/02/2007 9:32 PM |
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Eriks,
Having had a MG Midget repainted long time ago the secret to a good paint job is the prep work and it shows that you did a lot of prep work. Hopefully some yahoo won't ding it up for you.....
From the Third Coast.
Regards,
Ken
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Eriks Kalvins
Posts:29
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| 12/03/2007 6:12 PM |
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Well... there's always the expected bumps and bruises... rafting, hitting docks, getting t-boned by 30 footers... though strangely enough I think the rope in the water at youngstown that was keeping the j24 raft from going too close to the shore put the most wear on the paint.
If/when I repaint another one, I think I would probably use underwater epoxy on the leading 2-3" of the bow, just because that area tends to have the most in common with a battering ram.
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Doug Hosford
Posts:28
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| 12/04/2007 3:20 AM |
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| You can avoid installing an inspection port by cutting a 2" wide notch in the aft edge of sea hood flush with the deck edge below the slider. A single tag line forward holds the lifting strap in the notch when lifting the boat (slider removed). You can eliminate the single tag line by running the lifting strap through a 2" wide "U" bolt installed horizontally through the deck lip below the sea hood notch. Either way, the boat lifts slightly bow down (desireable) with the sails stowed forward. |
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