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Forums IJCA Forums
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IJCA Forums
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| Author |
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Hans Spiller
Posts:8
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| 08/26/2007 7:02 PM |
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Several people in my J24 fleet are looking for a trailer. There don't seem to be many available used. We're looking for the collected wisdom on various issues including:
Manufacturers
One versus two axles
Small pads versus extended bunks
other issues? (ladders, bow stops, bearing buddies, galvanized vs painted, electrical brakes vs surge brakes, tow vehicle size, trailer box, float-off vs crane only etc.)
there is some previous discussion on the old forum, which is backed up here: http://www.j24class.org/usa/forumarchives/j24howtodo/
-Hans Spiller
Seattle Fleet 26 |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 08/31/2007 1:35 PM |
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Manufacturers
Triad Trailers - was/is the factory option and they make excellent trailers. They are located in CT so delivery out west might be an issue.
One versus two axles
If you do any long distance trailering ona regular basis and/or your tow vehicle is marginal dual axle is preferred. If you only trailer short distances and/or you have tight spaces in the yard the single axle trailer is a lot more manuverable. The j/24 in all up towing weight it right around 5000lbs and that is the tipping point in most trailers (for any use) where they start adding a second axle. If it was a horse/cargo trailer rated for 5000lbs they would most always use two axles.
Small pads versus extended bunks
small pads seem to be the preferred method
other issues? (ladders, bow stops, bearing buddies, galvanized vs painted, electrical brakes vs surge brakes, tow vehicle size, trailer box, float-off vs crane only etc.)
- ladders and bow stops (usually go together) are great options and dont cost very much
- bearing buddies are a must if you choose the flota off option
- galvanized is a must of choosing float off otherwise its personal preference
- surge brakes work on any vehicle and a must for float off option. Electric brakes work better BUT you need a brake controller installed in the vehicle for them to work and NEVER use them on a float off trailer
- as I said before the towing weight of a J/24 is about 5000lbs. Most people say you should never exceed 90% of your tow vehicles capacity and its better to be less than 80%. That puts the "minimum" towing rating in the 5500lb range. If you exceed the GVWR of you tow vehicle and get into an accident you are automatically at fault and your insurance will not cover anything including medical claims. You could also be subject to charges because you are breaking the law. a great website for towing info is http://www.rvtowingtips.com/
- trailer boxes are great - use pickup truck boxes or deck boxes mounted as close to the axles as possible and watch you tounge weight (should be 10-15% of total trailer weight)
- float off sounds great but you need a pretty deep ramp to ramp launch it. it adds some cost to the trailer and effects some options as noted above.
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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steven clough
Posts:31
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| 09/02/2007 9:45 AM |
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I agree with Scott. It all depends on what you will be doing with the trailer and how you want your particular set-up. I live in Colorado and need to trailer my boat all over the state so a tandem axle, float-off trailer is the only option I have. The one caveat for float-off trailers that I would like to add is the launch/retrevial method that has been used by many sailors that have deep keels and shallow launch ramps. I have purchased (2) 10,000lbs fabric towing straps that I attach to the towing frame of my truck and around the trailer frame. I use (2) straps for safety and the 10,000lb strap is probably overkill but I tell you, I have witnessed a trailer break a cable and the trailer was now submerged at the bottom of the ramp. With a towing strap, the trailer and boat can go out as far on the ramp as possible to allow the boat to float off the trailer. As for reloading the boat, like Scott said, a bow stop is really nice since this is usually the only part that is exposed to line up the boat upon reloading. I might add that if a float-on trailer is being used, have them provide you with a keel guide which will allow the boat to be perfectly aligned on the trailer every time you load it as well as protecting your keel from banging into the trailer or bow pad stands. I can send you some photos of my trailer and how the boat fits on the stands and bow stop if you would like. Good Luck.
Steve
Hull#2366 |
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 09/24/2007 1:33 PM |
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Like others I have a Triad trailler for my J24. It is a single axle and is 27 years old but still in very good condition. While I don't profess to be a trailler expert, the axels are built for the load rating. So if you have the boat and trailler is 5000 pounds then the axel has to be rated for that load. The bigger issue is the ablity to move the boat around backing up. This is where the second axel really pays for itself. Additionally if you are coming home late at night and you blow a tire on a tandem axel trailler you are not out of the water. You can get to somewhere where the tire can be replaced. With a single axel you don't have that luxury.
I can't asnwer many of your other questions since I am going to be use a crane to launch my boat. However one thing that I have learned from a composite shop is to use a close cell foam on the wood bunks because the water dries/drains off faster and is less likely to blister the boats bottom. Just cut the pads to fit the wood, and use contact cement.
Hull # 2273 |
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Ken Shores
Posts:45
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| 11/10/2007 10:21 AM |
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| There was one other thing that I have recently learned about single axel J24 trailers. That is if you are going to work on your boat on the trailer, put a prop under the back of the trailer or you will feel very silly when the trailer sit down backwards. An added feature of a double axle trailer is that it is easier to turn and backup. |
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