ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 05/23/2008 1:50 PM |
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| The latest news in j24 interior states:
http://www.jboats.com/blog/2008/05/new-j24-is-unsinkable.html
The Class Rules Manual is pretty specific in the "Interior Layout Plan I" and "Plan II" about Marine Ply, sink and cabinet, etc.
I had to rip out delaminated floorboard and V berth marine ply due to the water damage from my 1984 model.
I would like to glass in the V berth area as in the later models, but I would like to keep the boat class legal.
I bet folks have replaced floorboards and V berth ply before, the question is whether is it OK to replace it with the evolved interior layout/ materials, or it HAS TO be the original scantling?
What did people use as plywood replacement? |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/06/2008 1:27 PM |
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| You can fill in the area of the v-berth but you cannot change the location of the existing berth tops (ie make the enclsed area larger or smaller). There was an article about this in the class magazine that I have and will post on the website this weekend. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 06/06/2008 3:33 PM |
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| Thanks,
Thanks, so using the original support tabs will keep me legit.
That begs the question: shouldn't ALL the changes be available to the public? Like the wider bulkhead opening also mentioned in the same blog.
The other question is: I would like to replace the delaminated berth tops (primarily the v-berth) with zero maintenance thing and I was thinking about some sandwich panels. Did anybody had some experience/ suggestion, positive or negative?
Inexpensive- easily available core (foam), etc. |
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 06/10/2008 3:53 PM |
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| Any chance to get a glimpse at that article?
I'm very interested in the stringer and v-berth top lamination details and any know how. |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/12/2008 5:44 PM |
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Sorry about that, it was a busy hot weekend and a busy work week.
I posted the V-berth article with pictures. I also posted the Drownproofing article but the pictures need to be downsized before I upload them.
Both articles are listed under the "Tips & Tricks" menu. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/13/2008 1:31 PM |
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| FYI I added the phots to the second article. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 06/13/2008 5:28 PM |
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Thanks,
This helps a lot. quick questions:
1., Since my plywood was moldy and delaminated, I would like to replace it with some zero maintenance (wood free) product. Had anybody used Coosa composite panels? Is there a local source in the SF bay area? Any other (foam core sandwich) replacement material experiences?
2., books say to put a foam load distributor strip when laminating something to the hull, like the side panel of the v-berth tank. Any idea on that?
3., in cleaning out the v berth plywd I notice that the hull ledge is a simple fiberglass strip laminated around corrugated cardboard shape. I swear I could touch the cardboard by reaching in with my fingers. I would like to replace the wooden strips at the bulkhead wit something like that. Any experience, gotchas...?
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 06/13/2008 5:31 PM |
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4., Also, the article mentioned screwing in the plywood back to the ledge and the wooden strip.
Isn't this redundant if the plywood is laminated to the hull and bulkheads? |
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Campbell Jenkins
Posts:5
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| 06/17/2008 4:59 AM |
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Has anyone got the width of the bilge area as in where the mast sits?
I can see the forward measurement ( from chain plate bulkhead to bow)on the photo and the height is on top of the angled hull reinforcement.
I need the width and then I can fabricate it in my old Nissan built J24 as it only has the forward bulkhead and thats all.
So if this add 325kg of bouyancy, how much more to prevent a sinking?
Thanks
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/17/2008 8:52 AM |
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ferenc,
My plywood is rotten as well. I plan on replacing it with okume plywood but after its cut into shape I will roll/brush on a couple of layers of epoxy to all six sides (top, bottom, and 4 edges) before laminating it in place. I am not sure that a plywood replacement would be class legal - you might wnat to pose that question to your measurer.
For the wood support strips I plan to do the same as with the ply - cut to fit and apply epoxy to all six sides before mounting.
As for screwing in the ply - yes its redundant but for the 10-15 minutes it will take and ounce or two of added weight why not?
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/17/2008 8:57 AM |
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Campbell,
I dont have an exact measurement but I know its over 8 feet but under 9 feet. I can take a measurement tomorrow and let you know.
To get more buoyancy check out the second article by Tim Winger "Drownproofing" under the "Tips and Tricks" menu. In that article he talks about sealing in the aft lazerette area that gives a lot more boancy to the boat and is the way the new boats are being built from the factory. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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Campbell Jenkins
Posts:5
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| 06/17/2008 9:25 AM |
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Scott
Thanks but the measurement I need is how wide the area left either side of the mast is, about 2 ' buy the looks of it?
Cheers
Campbell
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 06/17/2008 2:59 PM |
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| I guess it's about 18", but the main thing is to leave space for the battery and access for fastening, etc... |
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 06/17/2008 3:07 PM |
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| since in the current models it is laminated (no plywood) and popped in before the deck is placed on top (US Watercraft guy sez) I think it must only be governed by the "no replacement in order to reduce weight or change weight distribution"
Since building the tanks will result in some extra weight, and the goal is only safety and low maintenance, I don't think there should be any problem with the plywood replacement. My rotten plywood was epoxy coated all sides, but either it wasn't penetrated enough, or screw holes broke the coating integrity. |
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Campbell Jenkins
Posts:5
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| 06/18/2008 4:37 AM |
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I like the idea of more flotation and it will surely stiffen the hull.
The weight is low also, an area the J24 needs help in.
Next project must be the sink removal as per the new liner that is being installed
and the new wider centred bulkhead cutout. ( J must be reacting to the IC24 fleet...next we need a cockpit that is designed to have sailors in the boat)
http://www.j24class.org/News/tabid/59/mid/374/newsid374/79/Default.aspx
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/18/2008 3:56 PM |
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Posted By Campbell Jenkins on 06/17/2008 9:25 AM
Scott
Thanks but the measurement I need is how wide the area left either side of the mast is, about 2 ' buy the looks of it?
Cheers
Campbell
I think the 18" measurement is correct.
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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Scott Waterhouse
Posts:44
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| 06/18/2008 3:58 PM |
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Posted By ferenc lazar on 06/17/2008 3:07 PM
since in the current models it is laminated (no plywood) and popped in before the deck is placed on top (US Watercraft guy sez) I think it must only be governed by the "no replacement in order to reduce weight or change weight distribution" Since building the tanks will result in some extra weight, and the goal is only safety and low maintenance, I don't think there should be any problem with the plywood replacement. My rotten plywood was epoxy coated all sides, but either it wasn't penetrated enough, or screw holes broke the coating integrity.
Again, its a rule interpretation thing so I would suggest you contact your measurer and ask. Technically you need to let them know before you do any work anyway, so its worth the call\email. |
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Hull #970 (1978)
No Sailing Yet - Still Rebuilding! |
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Peter Stevens
Posts:32
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| 07/17/2008 11:09 PM |
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Re unsinkable
I am going to do the modifications to my boat and will post details on my web page.
Does positive buoyancy work ? - Yes
Chaeck out our posting and article on two J boats sinking in Australia. on www.hiyachtracing.com
Cheers
Pete
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ferenc lazar
Posts:26
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| 07/18/2008 12:30 PM |
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Will you use plywood, or some plastic/cored material for the v-berth?
looking forward to the details...
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