Will, probably should have talked to you in person at NA's.
There are two slots on the port side of the mast where my genoa and main halyards currently exit. There is also an exit where the mast meets the deck, originally where the main exited the mast. On starboard, there is only the one exit lower down for the spinnaker halyard.
Right now I'm looking at copying the Hall Rigging set up with the genoa and spinnaker halyards on starboard and the main on port. Any thoughts on that?
And to answer your question, the mast is white, 1979.

Try to use a horn cleat in addition to the H150 on the mast. The line can get yanked out of the cam-cleat, and the bolts can bend in the really heavy breeze. Use the 4inch horn cleat. It's barely big enough, but the good news is it won't snag lines.

Will

We run the main halyard out of an exit (about knee high) through a cleat (Harken 150) just below the exit then to a block on deck close to the mast. The block enables us to get good leverage for the hoist. We then flake the halyard and bungee it to the mast. This has been trouble-free so far.

so, for the main halyard, what do you do, do you drill a higher exit or do you put the cleat above the exit, and run it up to that?
thanks,
greg

Will,
You're right on in regards to Kenyon rigs. I'm sure you recall the Proctor type was significantly different (even amongst its own brand) ie: spreader attachment, welded on gooseneck, etc...
Best regards!

Mary,

I have to say that I'm a little surprised by this conversation because the original masts ('87 and earlier) have more than enough exits with the spare headsail halyard present. The main halyard with its sheave at deck level is the only exception I know of. Are you sure all of this is necessary?

I have done the mast mounting modification to 2 older style spars and never needed new exits.

Is your spar Black or White?

Will

Mary,
I agree with Paul, but suggest you check out the Ronstan RF5016 Riser for curved surfaces (lower cost, more Gucci!). If you are a do-it-yourselfer fabricate one yourself by using a bandsaw to cut UHMW stock and sand to the curvature of the mast by taping a piece of sandpaper to it and sanding the riser up and down in the appropriate location. Additionally try spacing the two 150's far enough apart so that you can put a hand between them (this will enable you to ease a controlled amount of genoa halyard while under load). When drilling on a rig that's on it's side, it's best to run messenger line, or you'll risk embedding aluminum shavings and burrs in your halyards (ouch!).
Good Luck and best regards,
______(\___(\__(\(\(\___/)__/)___/)_/)________

Dear Mary;
1. To drill the openings in the mast the best method is the draw the shape of the opening you want onto the mast. Then with a very sharp, small diameter drill bit drill a series of closley spaced holes around the inside of the line you drew. Once you have made it around the entire hole you should be able to pry the piece out. File all of the edges to the line and make sure they are very smooth so it doesn't chafe the halyards.
2. To install the cleat I would purchase the metal cleat risers from a company like layline or hall spars. Purchase a drill and tap set and drill and tap the holes. Be sure to use some silicone, or blue locktite on the thread so you don't corrode the mast. Use just enough pressure installing the screws and be carefull not to strip the mast. The Harken 150's or Ronstan Carbo Cleats work well. I would double cleat the genoa halyard and use a horn cleat for the main.
3. The way to avoid drilling the halyard is to turn the mast on its side and let the halyards lay on the opposite side while you drill the top.
4. There is not an easy method I know of to prevent twists at this point. One, not so sure fire, way is to tighten up three of the four lines and feel for resistance on the one loose halyard. Its not great but sometimes if you take the top cap off the mast you can shine a flashlight in and look up from the bottom. Tighten one halyard, very tight and see if it moves any other halyards. This is not an exact science so be patient.
5. The best way to do all of this is on two or three saw horses in the backyard.
Good Luck
Happy Sailing
Paul Scalisi
Quantum Sail Design Group- New Jersey

I would like to move my halyards forward to the mast. I currently have the original type set up where the main, genoa, topping lift, downhaul, etc. run to the cockpit.
1)How do you drill the openings?
2)What's the best way to install the cleats, etc., best type to use?
3)How do you avoid drilling the halyard line itself?
4)How do the re-running out the new opening work (how do you keep them from getting twisted)?
5)Is it best to do this with the mast down or up (for everything)?